Non-Designer Cupcakes

They say that the cupcake craze may not last (see http://www.digitalcity.com/2009/09/03/cupcake-bubble-about-to-burst/). They’re probably right. Especially since I think that a) the cupcake trend is based more on how the cupcakes are decorated than how they taste, and b) many of the designer cupcakes don’t really taste all that great, if we’re to be honest about it.

Most of the latter has to do with the fact that they’re just too darned dry. In my opinion, cupcake crumbs should give a nod to their batter beginnings and smear when swept off the tabletop (rather than drifting like snowflakes from Denver because they lack the moisture gumption to get all gooey together).

So, when the designer cupcake meets its inevitable demise, you are going to need this recipe. These are serious cupcakes. They outweigh the $3 fluffy cupcake 2:1. They are straight-up chocolate. They are not to be trifled with. The recipe author, Marcel Desaulniers, even advises against letting youngsters at them, lest the sheer amount of energy-inducing chocolate keep the kiddies “bouncing off the walls” (as my mother would say) until well after the bedtime stories have ended.

The first time I made them, I brought them into the office because these are not the kind of treat that you can have lying about as fodder for midnight munchies. A few bites from one and you’ve probably taken care of about 25% of your daily caloric intake. But they're worth it. And that was the general consensus around the office, which at the time comprised mostly male Web developers and designers.

While I knew that the cupcakes would get eaten (as does anything remotely edible that finds its way into an office common area), I had no idea they would get such raves from a troupe whose lunches usually involved a hefty portion of red meat, chips, and assorted other savories. I’m ashamed to admit that I had fallen under the assumption that most men do not hold decadent chocolate treats in high regard.

I was wrong, at least when it came to these normally reticent alpha males. They didn’t just say, “Oh, cupcakes ” under their breaths and do a quick-swipe to appear as though they weren’t really taking one. They actually paused to ask where the cupcakes came from and why they were so good. 

Outside of business meetings, these guys did not speak unless the building was on fire or something similarly noteworthy had occurred. So, you see, you’re not just taking my word for it when I tell you that these are seriously good cupcakes. You’ve got the word of an office full of dyed-in-the-wool geeks who wouldn’t be caught dead with a designer cupcake.

Non-Designer Cupcakes (AKA Granny Twichell’s Secret Chocolate Cupcake Recipe)


Rating: 4

Here's why:

Serious chocolate: The cupcake batter itself calls for a ridiculous amount of chocolate, but then you add in the chocolate chips, which puts this cupcake firmly in the realm of decadent.

Medley of textures: The little chunks of semisweet chips help break up the dense cake and are complemented nicely by the smooth, gooey “frosting” (which is actually a ganache).

Highs: This is another easy recipe, as long as you don’t panic when combining the chocolate and hot cream together for both the batter and the icing. Watch the cream carefully as it heats - don't let it boil or heat for any longer than the recommended time. Don’t rush the “curing” period when the chocolate is sitting in the hot cream, and then be patient when mixing them together, as it often takes a while for the cream and chocolate to combine into a smooth ganache (if the cupcake batter ganache is a bit grainy, it should still be fine; not so for the icing ganache, so be as precise and patient as possible when making it).

Lows: The only thing I would recommend is adding salt to both the cupcake batter and the icing. Salt greatly enhances the chocolate flavor, so I have found that all baked goods containing chocolate are much better after an additional dash or two of salt.

Equipment

• Double boiler (if you don't have this, or don't know what it is, use a medium - 3 qt - metal bowl for the top section/chocolate and a 2.5-qt saucepan for the bottom section; the bowl should cover the circumference of the top of the saucepan and also should not touch the recommended 1 inch of water in the bottom of the pan)
• Cupcake pan
• Electric mixer

• Cupcake liners/cups (recipe recommends foil cups

Note: The recipe makes at least 18 cupcakes, so if you don’t want/need that many, I recommend halving it, which results in about 8 good-sized cupcakes.

Chocolate Cupcake

• 10 oz semisweet chocolate, broken into ½-ounce pieces
• 1 c. heavy cream
• 5 eggs
• 1/2 c. granulated sugar
• 1 t. pure vanilla extract
• ¾ c. cake flour
• ½ t. baking soda
• ½ t. salt (my addition; see comments above)


• 2 c. semisweet chocolate chips

Chocolate Icing

• ½ c. heavy cream
• 6 oz. semisweet chocolate, broken into ½-oz pieces

• Dash of salt

Decoration (if desired): 1 oz. white chocolate, grated (for garnish)

Instructions

Preheat oven to 325 and place 18 baking cups in two muffin tins.
Heat 1 inch of water in the bottom half of a double boiler over medium heat.

Place 10 oz. semisweet chocolate, 1 c. heavy cream, and 2 oz. unsweetened chocolate in the top half of the double boiler. Tightly cover the top with film wrap. Allow to heat for 8 minutes. Remove from heat and stir until smooth. Set aside until needed.

Place eggs, sugar, and vanilla extract in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Beat on medium until lemon-colored and slightly thickened, about 4 minutes.

Add the melted chocolate mixture and beat on medium for 15 to 20 seconds more. Add the cake flour, baking soda, salt, and chocolate chips, and beat on low for 10 seconds. Increase to medium and beat for an additional 10 seconds. Use a rubber spatula to thoroughly combine the batter.

Evenly divide the mixture into 18 baking cups, filling the cups to ¼ inch below the rim. Bake in the preheated oven until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 to 30 minutes (20 minutes is good if you’re halving the recipe).

To prepare the icing, heat ½ c. heavy cream in a 1 ½-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil. Place 6 oz. semisweet chocolate in a stainless steel bowl. Pour the boiling cream over the chocolate and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir with a whisk until smooth, adding in a dash or two of salt.

One at a time, dip the top of each of the cupcakes into the chocolate icing. Sprinkle the grated white chocolate over the icing on each cupcake and refrigerate for 30 minutes to set the icing.
Allow the cupcakes to come to room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.