Dark Chocolate Pumpkin Cheesecake

If while stocking up on Thanksgiving foodstuffs you find yourself succumbing to some crazy 3-for-1 deal on Libby's only to realize that canned pumpkin does actually expire (and, as ill luck would have it, sometime before next Thanksgiving), this cheesecake is a great way to put the pumpkin to good use. It's sophisticated and delicious - if homemade pumpkin pie is Sweet Home Alabama, this cheesecake is Bright Lights, Big City.

Advisory:  Do not use this cheesecake as a "think outside the box!" replacement to old-fashioned pumpkin pie for your Thanksgiving feast. Do not heed the advice of the food mags that tell you not to serve the traditional favorites simply because they are (and we can't blame them for this) weary of recycling recipes from last year's Thanksgiving issue. Nothing beats a fresh pumpkin pie topped with homemade whipped cream.

(Yes, homemade whipped cream. Come on, it takes 5 minutes to make it, which is about as long as it takes to get the plastic safety seal off a can of Reddi-Wip. Even the name should make you think twice before using it. Why would you spend hours on a homemade crust and pumpkin filling and then bust out the aerosol whipped cream for the crowning touch? You wouldn't put Cheez Whiz on made-from-scratch tortilla chips and expect the result to be perfectly delicious nachos, would you? Ok, venting session over. Do as you will.)

Whatever you do, you must try this cheesecake. And since it's not like you can just pick it up in the grocery store bakery section, nor even at the Cheesecake Factory, you just have to take the plunge and make it. But you won't regret it.

Rating: 5

Here's why: Creamy chocolate cheesecake + slightly bittersweet ganache filling + custard-like pumpkin cheesecake + a hint of tangy-sweet sour cream topping (the latter being optional, but highly recommended) = perfection. In my palate's opinion, this cheesecake offers a divine blend of some of the best flavors to be found in the average kitchen pantry. Truly, you would be hard-pressed to find a better dessert even in an upscale restaurant (nope, the Cheesecake Factory doesn't count - they sell space in their menus for advertisements; need I say more?). One friend who tried it even thought it had been purchased at a gourmet bakery!

Lows:
Ok, so about the presentation: the one in the photo looks a bit like a white porcupine, mostly because I loathe pecans and knew that I wouldn't use up the entire bag. So I tried to put as much as possible on the cake. Result: white porcupine cheesecake. Ugly. But yours can be much prettier if you actually follow the directions. Just go easy on the pecans.
Also, I am duty-bound to warn you that this recipe involves one whopper of a complex, time-consuming process. Prepare to spend hours in your kitchen. Prepare to scrape down the sides of your mixer bowl for what feels like a hundred times. Prepare to hover anxiously over your stove, praying that the top of the cheesecake doesn't crack (but fear not: I have a tip to help prevent that). Above all, prepare yourself for an incredible dessert that will make a serious impression on whoever is lucky enough to devour it.

Highs:
This is a great recipe if you want to really flex your baking prowess, too, because it is more like an experience than a normal recipe. It's not just about making one cheesecake from scratch (challenging even with the most simple of recipes - except those no-bake ones, which don't exactly count). It's about making two cheesecakes, plus a ganache filling, plus a homemade cookie-crumb crust! Oh, and then you have to make it all stick together and look pretty. Yes. Worthwhile, but - whew.



Here are a few tips, based on my experience:
1. Do not attempt to make this in one day. Spread it out over 3 days if you decide to use the homemade cookie crumb crust. Two days, minimum, if you just crumble up some store-bought chocolate cookies for the crust.

2. If you don’t want the cheesecake to crack, follow the water bath instructions and leave the cheesecakes in the oven for a full hour after you’ve turned if off. This is my one modification to the recipe because ever since I tried it with another cheesecake recipe, I swear by it.

3. Be careful during the construction process. Inverting one cake atop another nearly gave me a panic attack. Not easy; proceed with caution.

4. Do add the sour cream topping (which is optional in the recipe). It adds a tangy touch that the overall taste would be lacking without.

5. Go easy on the pecans. (Ahem.)


Pantry/Shopping List (for All Associated Recipes)

• Butter: 15 T. (12 of which are for cookie crumb crust)


• Flour: 1 ½ c. (for cookie crust), plus 2 T.


• Granulated sugar: 1 ½ c. + 2 T


• Brown sugar: 1 ½ c. (for cookie crust) + 2 T. (for optional sour cream topping)


• Eggs: 3 for cookie crumb crust; 6 for cheesecakes


• Cream cheese: 2 lb.


• Heavy cream: 1 c.


• Sour cream: ¾ c. (for optional topping)


• Coffee: ¼ c. of brewed coffee


• Pure pumpkin: 1 c. (pureed or from solid –pack can of pumpkin) Note: do NOT use pumpkin pie filling, as this contains spices and will overwhelm the chocolate flavor.


• Semisweet chocolate: 8 oz. (for cookie crust) + 20 oz. (for chocolate cheesecake and ganache)


• Unsweetened chocolate: 4 oz. (for cookie crust)


• Unsweetened cocoa: ½ c. (for cookie crust)


• Pecans/pecan pieces: 2 c. (for cookie crust and garnish)


• Vanilla: 3 T (1 for cookie crumb crust)


• Spices, leaveners, etc.: Salt, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, baking soda

Ingredients for Each Cake Part

Chocolate Pecan Cookie Crust

• 1 c. pecan pieces


• 6 Deep Dark Chocolate Fudge Cookies (click here for recipe)


• 1 t. unsalted butter, softened

Chocolate Cheesecake

• 8 oz. semisweet chocolate, broken into ½-oz. pieces


• ¼ c. brewed coffee, full strength


• ¾ lb. cream cheese, softened


• ¾ c. granulated sugar


• ½ t. salt


• 3 eggs


• 1 t. vanilla

Pumpkin Cheesecake

• 2 t. unsalted butter, softened


• 1 lb. cream cheese, softened


• ¾ c. granulated sugar


• 2 T. all-purpose flour


• ½ t. salt


• 3 eggs


• 1 t. vanilla


• 1 c. pure pumpkin puree (or solid-pack, if from a can)


• ¼ t. ground cinnamon


• ¼ t. ground allspice


• 1/8 t. ground cloves

Semisweet Chocolate Ganache

• 1 c. heavy cream


• 2 T. unsalted butter


• 2 T. granulated sugar


• 12 oz. semisweet chocolate, broken into ½-oz. pieces

Instructions(deep breath)

1. Make and cool the Deep Dark Chocolate Fudge Cookies (for your sanity's sake, do this at least 1 day before you dive into the rest of the recipe).


2. Preheat the oven to 325 and chop 1 c. of pecans into pieces.


3. Toast the pecan pieces on a baking sheet in the preheated oven for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature. Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, chop the cookies and the pecans until they are in crumbs (should yield approximately 2 cups), about 20 to 30 seconds. Set aside until needed.


4. Prepare a 9-inch springform pan for baking the chocolate cheesecake: pop the bottom of the pan out and line it with foil; tuck foil underneath pan bottom. Then assemble the pan and carefully pull the foil around the sides of the pan. Coat bottom with 1 t. melted butter. Use your hands to press 1 c. of crumbs into a uniform and level thickness on the buttered bottom of the pan. Set aside.


5. Prepare the chocolate cheesecake: Heat 1 inch of water in the bottom half of a double boiler over medium-high heat. Place the semisweet chocolate and coffee in the top half of the double boiler. Tightly cover the top with film wrap and allow to heat for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth. Place ¾ lb. softened cream cheese, ¾ c. sugar, and ½ t. salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Beat on low for 1 minute and on medium for 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then beat on medium for 2 more minutes and on high for 2 minutes. Scrape down the bowl.
   Add 3 eggs, one at a time, beating on high for 20 seconds and scraping down the bowl after each addition. Then beat the mixture for 1 more minute on high. Add 1 t. vanilla and beat on medium for 15 seconds.
   Add the melted chocolate mixture, then beat on medium for 30 seconds.
   Remove the bowl from the mixer. Use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the batter until it is smooth and thoroughly combined. Pour the cheesecake mixture into the prepared springform pan, spreading evenly. Keep at room temperature while preparing the pumpkin cheesecake batter.


6. Prepare a 9-inch springform pan for the pumpkin cheesecake: line the bottom of it with foil, tuck foil underneath pan bottom. Then assemble the pan and carefully pull the foil around the sides of the pan. Coat bottom with 1 t. melted butter.


7. Prepare the pumpkin cheesecake: Place 1 lb. softened cream cheese, ¾ c. sugar, the flour, and ½ t. salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Beat on low for 1 minute and on medium for 2 minutes.
   Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then beat on medium for 2 more minutes and on high for 3 minutes. Scrape down the bowl.
   Add 3 eggs, one at a time, beating on high for 20 seconds and scraping down the bowl after each addition.
   Add 1 t. vanilla and beat on medium for 15 seconds, then beat for 2 more minutes on high.
   Add the pumpkin, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves, and beat on medium for 30 seconds.
   Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the batter until it is smooth and thoroughly combined.
   Pour the pumpkin cheesecake mixture into the prepared cake pan, filling evenly.


8. Prepare to bake the cheesecakes: Bring a teakettle of water to boil. Set filled springform pans into two larger pans that accommodate them (and have at least 1/2 inch of space between the side of the springform and the side of the larger pan). Set both pans on the middle rack of the preheated oven. Fill each of the larger pans with boiling water to come about halfway up the side of the springform pans.


9. Bake the cheesecakes: Bake for approximately 55 to 70 minutes, until perimeter of cakes are set but jiggle like Jell-O when pans are tapped. Turn off heat and leave oven door ajar, using a long-handled fork or spoon to hold it open for 1 hour (yes – this is what prevents the cakes from cracking).


10. Refrigerate the chocolate cheesecake for at least 1 hour, but keep the pumpkin cheesecake at room temperature while you make the ganache.


11. Make the semisweet chocolate ganache: Heat the heavy cream, butter, and sugar in a 2/1/2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, stir to dissolve the sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil. Place the chocolate in a stainless steel bowl. Pour the boiling cream over the chocolate and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir until smooth. Allow to cool to room temperature.


12. Construct your masterpiece: Pour 1 c. of the ganache over the top of the chilled chocolate cheesecake. Spread the ganache evenly over the top of the cake. Carefully invert the pumpkin cheesecake onto the layer of ganache. Gently press down on the cake to set it in place. Wrap the entire springform pan with film wrap and refrigerate for 3 hours to set.


13. Release the cheesecake! Remove the film wrap and wrap a damp, hot towel around the sides of the pan (towel should be large enough to completely wrap around and cover the sides of the pan). Hold the towel around the pan for about 1 minute. Carefully release and remove the springform pan.


14. Smooth the sides of the top of the cake with 2 to 3 T ganache, using a cake spatula. Spread the remaining ganache evenly across the top of the cake. Press the remaining cookie/pecan crumb mixture onto the sides of the cake, coating evenly. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before cutting and serving.


15. (Optional, but recommended) Make the sour cream topping: Whisk together ¾ c. sour cream and 2 T. brown sugar in a stainless steel bowl. Pour the mixture onto the center are of the cake. Using a spatula, spread the sour cream to within 2 inches of the outside edge of the top of the cake. Evenly space 12 (yes, not 80, as I used) pecan halves ½-inch from the outer edge of the top. Refrigerate for an hour before serving and cutting.
16. Show off your masterpiece and then treat yourself to a ridiculously large slice. You will have burned off more than enough calories during the baking process!

(Unexpectedly Worthwhile) Dark Chocolate Cookies

Despite an unwritten policy to not try any of the cookie recipes in Death by Chocolate, I made an exception when I attempted Chocolate Pumpkin Cheesecake (coming soon). The crust for it required crushed Deep Dark Chocolate Fudge Cookies, which I suspected were just basic chocolate cookies gussied up with a decadent-sounding name. I considered cutting corners by mashing up some Oreos and calling it good, but as my rule is to stay as faithful to the recipes as possible, I dutifully set about making them. And although I didn’t think the crumb-crust cookies would be notable enough for a separate write-up, they unexpectedly, and decidedly, were.

Deep Dark Chocolate Fudge Cookies

Rating: 4

Here’s why:
An untainted dark chocolate flavor dominates in this moist, chewy, perfectly sized cookie. Most chocolate cookies don’t really do it for me, usually because they’re too dry or full of distractions (chocolate chips, nuts, small children–just kidding on that last one–etc.). But these make for the perfect finale to a light dinner, bookends for French vanilla ice cream, and sweet afternoon snack.

Highs:
Frankly, if I’m going to have chocolate, a cookie is not the best medium. Skip the flour, butter, eggs, etc. and just get straight to the good stuff. It’s difficult to get a chocolate-y cookie without it being too dry from the cocoa, or burdened with chocolate chips.

Which is why I think this one turned out so well: its primary source of chocolate is a ganache rather than cocoa or chips (the latter of which are optional in the recipe, and I opted out). I’ve actually tried to come up with an excuse to make them again, which I can’t say for any other dark chocolate cookie recipe I’ve tried. More importantly, they got rave reviews from several chocolate connoisseurs who taste-tested them and then even took some home. (Let’s be honest. When I make something and people come up with the classic, “Oh, I really can’t have those lying around my kitchen, delicious as they are!” excuse, it’s probably because they’re thinking Betty Crocker could've done the job just as well.)

Lows:
The only drawback is that all the starting and stopping, and ticking off 10 seconds here and 30 seconds there, while mixing the batter is enough to make even the most fastidious baker a little crazy. Oh, and don't freak out if the dough doesn't seem dry enough to you: this stuff mixes up more like thick cake batter, and explains why the cookies are so moist.

Ingredients

• 1 ½ c. all-purpose flour
• ½ c. unsweetened cocoa
• 1 t. baking soda
• 1 t. salt
• 8 oz. semisweet chocolate, broken into ½-oz. pieces
• 4 oz. unsweetened chocolate, broken into ½-oz. pieces
• 1 ½ cups tightly packed brown sugar
• 12 T. butter
• 3 eggs
• 1 t. vanilla

Instructions
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt onto waxed paper. Set aside.
Heat 1 inch of water in the bottom half of a double boiler over medium heat. Place the semisweet and the unsweetened chocolates into the top half of the double boiler. Tightly cover the top with film wrap and allow to heat for 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir until smooth. Keep at room temperature until needed.
Place the light brown sugar and butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Beat on medium for 1 minute. Scrape down the bowl and heat on high for an additional 30 seconds. Scrape down the bowl. Add the eggs, one at a time, while beating on medium, and stopping to scrape down the bowl after incorporating each addition. Add the vanilla extract and beat on medium for 30 seconds.
Add the melted chocolate and beat on low for 10 seconds more. Scrape down the bowl and beat for an additional 30 seconds. Add the sifted dry ingredients and beat on low until thoroughly combined, about 20 to 30 seconds. Remove the bowl from the mixer and mix thoroughly with a rubber spatula.
Portion 6 to 8 cookies per baking sheet by dropping 2 level tablespoons of batter per cookie onto each of the 2 baking sheets. Place the cookies on the top and middle shelves of the preheated oven and bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the sheets from top to bottom about halfway throughout the baking time. Allow the cookies to cool for 5 to 6 minutes on the baking sheets. Transfer the cookies to a cooling rack to thoroughly cool before storing in a sealed plastic container. Repeat this process until all the cookies have been baked.